Back to Black: A fashionable colour from Worth to Chanel

While menswear remained mainly dominated by black throughout the 19th century, the new bright and glowing colours of aniline dyes influenced women’s fashion, relegating black to a background trend. This article addresses the rise of black as a womenswear trend, from the popularity of “imperial black...

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Publicat a:URI:https://journals.openedition.org/techne,
Autor principal: Ronetti, Alessandra
Format: Article ou chapitre numérique
Idioma:Anglais
Publicat: Technè 2024
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Accés en línia:Accès Université d'Orléans et IFPM
Accès Université d'Orléans et IFPM
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Sumari:While menswear remained mainly dominated by black throughout the 19th century, the new bright and glowing colours of aniline dyes influenced women’s fashion, relegating black to a background trend. This article addresses the rise of black as a womenswear trend, from the popularity of “imperial black silks” during Second Empire fashion, and the revival of black in eveningwear in fin-de-siècle culture, to Chanel’s modern little black dress (1926) interpreted as the ultimate reaction against the gaudy colours inherited from the 19th century chromatic revolution. This research thus explores black as a fashionable colour related to material, popular and visual cultures, and discusses the notion of “artificial black” that emerges more generally from 19th century visual culture.